Nightlife in São ToméBars, Clubs and Where People Go

São Tomé is not a nightlife destination, and I would not sell it as one. Monday to Thursday can be extremely quiet. Sundays depend largely on whether the party at the stadium is happening. Even on a Friday or Saturday, a private party or local event can pull the crowd somewhere else.

That does not mean there are no good nights. Zima is the usual starting point in the city, Kizomba is the only proper nightclub, and an open-air Sunday party at the national stadium draws a large local crowd when it is on. Outside the capital, nightlife generally means neighbourhood bars, roadside barbecues and whatever festa happens to be taking place.

The main difficulty is finding out where people have gone that evening. There may be very little happening in one place because everyone is at an event somewhere else.

The Meeting Point

Zima: the usual meeting point

Zima is on Rua de Angola in the city centre, opposite Escola Secundária Patrice Lumumba. It is the closest São Tomé has to a regular evening hub, particularly during the week, although that does not mean it will be busy.

Most of the seating is outdoors at large, covered tables. There is also an inside area, but seating is limited. If two of you sit at a table intended for six, expect somebody else to join you. Tables here are more communal than they are in many European bars.

Karaoke at Zima

From Monday to Thursday, Zima normally has karaoke. What it lacks in technical skill it makes up for in enthusiasm. English songs are common, often sung with a local twist.

If you want to sing, walk over to the DJ and give him your choice; he will write it down. The videos are usually played from YouTube and projected onto a large outdoor screen. The screen also attracts insects, and the resident lizards take full advantage of the free breakfast.

It is an experience even when the bar is quiet, but do not go on a Wednesday expecting a crowd just because karaoke is advertised.

When to go

I would go from around 8pm for a quieter drink and a better chance of finding a table. If you want to see people, go after 10pm. Friday and Saturday are normally busier, but a competing local event can still keep the numbers down.

Entry is free. Tables can sometimes be reserved for a special event; otherwise arrive early if having one matters to you.

Prices, food and payment

Beer is inexpensive; imported spirits and mixers are not. Zima sells fish and chicken, and I often see food being served at around 10pm during the week. It may continue later, but do not plan the evening around the kitchen keeping fixed hours.

Zima accepts cards, although carrying cash remains sensible.

The Club

Kizomba: São Tomé's only proper nightclub

Kizomba is near the airport on Rua Padre Martinho Pinto da Rocha. Local taxi drivers will know it.

Kizomba is dark, sweaty and fun. The crowd is mainly local and mostly young adults, but visitors are welcome. There is no obvious dress code. Inside, there is a dance floor and some seating, with a smoking area outside.

The music is mainly Santomean and Angolan, with Afrobeats in the mix. Do not expect much international music.

Friday and Saturday can both be packed. Arrive at about 10pm, although the night will only be beginning. I normally surrender at around 2am, so I cannot tell you when it finishes.

Allow roughly 50 dobras for entry. Drinks are locally priced and broadly comparable with Zima. I have never tried to pay by card, so take cash.

I have never seen food sold inside Kizomba, so eat first.

Sunday Ritual

Sunday at the stadium

On most Sundays, an open-air party takes place around the car park at Estádio Nacional 12 de Julho. It used to be held in Micolo but has since moved into the city. There is no dependable published schedule, so ask a taxi driver whether it is happening. The crowd usually starts to build at around 8pm.

The general area is free. Most people stand or lean against the railings. The VIP section costs approximately 100 dobras per person and gives you access to the tables. Food and drinks are sold inside VIP, but prices are usually better immediately outside it.

Music mixes Santomean and Angolan tracks with some European music. Dress is casual, although many locals make an effort and wear orange dresses, T-shirts or other orange clothing. It is a local tradition, although I have never discovered why. Visitors do not need to wear orange.

Early Evening

Pico Mocambo: good for an early drink

Pico Mocambo is a bar and restaurant on Avenida Amílcar Cabral. The food is good and it works well for a drink earlier in the evening.

It is comparatively expensive and attracts far more tourists than locals. Nobody should arrive expecting to dance on the tables.

It often closes at around 10pm in my experience, regardless of what some online listings claim. TAP crew often drink there, so it may be your best opportunity to buy your pilot a beer before the flight home.

Cards are not accepted, although payment through Revolut is possible. Pay in dobras if you can because the euro exchange rate is not especially competitive.

Watch the Schedule

Rooftop: watch for special events

Rooftop is above the supermarket on Rua de Angola, a short distance from Zima. It is primarily a restaurant rather than a nightlife venue, and its food is covered in our São Tomé restaurant guide.

Outside the City

Local bars and street barbecues

Outside São Tomé city, named nightlife venues largely disappear. After dark, small bars and roadside grills begin serving cold beer and fish straight from the barbecue.

You do not need an invitation. Walk in, sit down and order. If your Portuguese is limited, pointing and asking the price will usually get the job done. Fish with a beer may cost around 100 dobras, although this is a rough estimate and varies by place and portion. Expect to pay cash.

People will probably talk to you, and somebody may ask whether you will buy them a beer or cigarette. Do not be intimidated; it is part of the evening, and you can always say no. Large groups are unusual but generally welcomed and can be great fun.

The etiquette is uncomplicated: greet people, behave normally and do not point a camera into somebody's face. People are having their own night out, just as you are.

Practical

Getting home

Late at night, a motorcycle taxi may be easier to find than a car. Fares also rise at night and over the weekend. Our guide to getting around São Tomé covers local transport in more detail.

Central São Tomé has always felt safe to me at night. The more immediate problem is poor lighting, particularly during a power cut, so watch where you are walking and carry a torch. Our São Tomé city guide has more practical advice about walking around the capital.

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