Mucumbli EcolodgeOcean-view chalets near Neves

The Setting

Mucumbli sits on the north-west coast of São Tomé, near Neves, on the road that runs up towards Santa Catarina.

The lodge is owned and run by Italian couple Tiziano and Mari Pisoni, who have lived on the island for over twenty years. It began as a place for family and friends and has grown gradually into the lodge it is today.

The work is deliberately rooted in the Lemba district, one of the least economically developed parts of the island, and the lodge is a significant local employer.

The Chalets

Accommodation is in wooden chalets built with local materials, each with a private en-suite bathroom and a wide veranda facing the ocean.

Rooms have ceiling fans rather than air conditioning, which suits the breezy coastal position. WiFi is available in the restaurant area.

House Jaca is the largest option, sleeping up to eight guests, and works well for families or two couples travelling together.

The Restaurant

The restaurant serves Italian and Santomean cooking using produce grown on the property. Breakfast and dinner are both available.

The fish of the day is worth ordering. It is a relaxed, open-air room, and one of the reasons people stay longer than planned.

The Beach and Wildlife

A short but steep path leads down to a beach of dark volcanic sand. Bring water shoes, as the shoreline is rocky.

Turtles nest on the beach between November and March. Humpback whales and dolphins are seen offshore between July and October.

The lodge organises trekking, bird watching, cycling, roça tours, whale watching and dolphin watching. Bike hire and car hire can be arranged.